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Chapter no 1

Eat, Pray, Love: One Woman's Search for Everything Across Italy, India and Indonesia

Iย wish Giovanni would kiss me.

Oh, but there are so many reasons why this would be a terrible idea. To begin with, Giovanni is ten years younger than I am, andโ€”like most Italian guys in their twentiesโ€”he still lives with his mother. These facts alone make him an unlikely romantic partner for me, given that I am a professional American woman in my mid-thirties, who has just come through a failed marriage and a devastating, interminable divorce, followed immediately by a passionate love affair that ended in sickening heartbreak. This loss upon loss has left me feeling sad and brittle and about seven thousand years old. Purely as a matter of principle I wouldnโ€™t inflict my sorry, busted-up old self on the lovely, unsullied Giovanni. Not to mention that I have finally arrived at that age where a woman starts to question whether the wisest way to get over the loss of one beautiful brown-eyed young man is indeed to promptly invite another one into her bed. This is why I have been alone for many months now. This is why, in fact, I have decided to spend this entire year in celibacy.

To which the savvy observer might inquire: โ€œThen why did you come toย Italy?โ€

To which I can only replyโ€”especially when looking across the table at handsome Giovanniโ€”โ€œExcellent question.โ€

Giovanni is my Tandem Exchange Partner. That sounds like an innuendo, but unfortunately itโ€™s not. All it really means is that we meet a few evenings a week here in Rome to practice each otherโ€™s languages.

We speak first in Italian, and he is patient with me; then we speak in English, and I am patient with him. I discovered Giovanni a few weeks after Iโ€™d arrived in Rome, thanks to that big Internet cafรฉ at the Piazza Barbarini, across the street from that fountain with the sculpture of that s*xy merman blowing into his conch shell. He (Giovanni, that isโ€”not the merman) had posted a flier on the bulletin board explaining that a

native Italian speaker was seeking a native English speaker for conversational language practice. Right beside his appeal was another flier with the same request, word-for-word identical in every way, right down to the typeface. The only difference was the contact information. One flier listed an e-mail address for somebody named Giovanni; the other introduced somebody named Dario. But even the home phone number was the same.

Using my keen intuitive powers, I e-mailed both men at the same time, asking in Italian, โ€œAre you perhaps brothers?โ€

It was Giovanni who wrote back this veryย provocativoย message: โ€œEven better. Twins!โ€

Yesโ€”much better. Tall, dark and handsome identical twenty-five-year- old twins, as it turned out, with those giant brown liquid-center Italian eyes that just unstitch me. After meeting the boys in person, I began to wonder if perhaps I should adjust my rule somewhat about remaining celibate this year. For instance, perhaps I could remain totally celibateย exceptย for keeping a pair of handsome twenty-five-year-old Italian twin brothers as lovers. Which was slightly reminiscent of a friend of mine who is vegetarian except for bacon, but nonetheless . . . I was already composing my letter toย Penthouse:

In the flickering, candlelit shadows of the Roman cafรฉ, it was impossible to tell whose hands were caressโ€”

But, no.

No and no.

I chopped the fantasy off in mid-word. This was not my moment to be seeking romance and (as day follows night) to further complicate my already knotty life. This was my moment to look for the kind of healing and peace that can only come from solitude.

Anyway, by now, by the middle of November, the shy, studious Giovanni and I have become dear buddies. As for Darioโ€”the more razzle-dazzle swinger brother of the twoโ€”I have introduced him to my adorable little Swedish friend Sofie, and how theyโ€™ve been sharingย theirย evenings in Rome is another kind of Tandem Exchange altogether. But Giovanni and I, we only talk. Well, we eat and we talk. We have been eating and talking for many pleasant weeks now, sharing pizzas and

gentle grammatical corrections, and tonight has been no exception. A lovely evening of new idioms and fresh mozzarella.

Now it is midnight and foggy, and Giovanni is walking me home to my apartment through these back streets of Rome, which meander organically around the ancient buildings like bayou streams snaking around shadowy clumps of cypress groves. Now we are at my door. We face each other. He gives me a warm hug. This is an improvement; for the first few weeks, he would only shake my hand. I think if I were to stay in Italy for another three years, he might actually get up the juice to kiss me. On the other hand, he might just kiss me right now, tonight, right here by my door . . . thereโ€™s still a chance . . . I mean weโ€™re pressed up against each otherโ€™s bodies beneath this moonlight . . . and of course it would be aย terribleย mistake . . . but itโ€™s still such a wonderful possibility that he might actually do it right now . . . that he might just bend down . . . and . . . and . . .

Nope.

He separates himself from the embrace. โ€œGood night, my dear Liz,โ€ he says.ย โ€œBuona notte, caro mio,โ€ย I reply.

I walk up the stairs to my fourth-floor apartment, all alone. I let myself into my tiny little studio, all alone. I shut the door behind me. Another solitary bedtime in Rome. Another long nightโ€™s sleep ahead of me, with nobody and nothing in my bed except a pile of Italian phrasebooks and dictionaries.

I am alone, I am all alone, I am completely alone.

Grasping this reality, I let go of my bag, drop to my knees and press my forehead against the floor. There, I offer up to the universe a fervent prayer of thanks.

First in English.

Then in Italian.

And thenโ€”just to get the point acrossโ€”in Sanskrit.

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